Butterick 4919
One of the things I love about sewing is that with some fabric and some work…
I end up with something that is original and can’t be bought in a store anywhere.
This is the dress I wore to the wedding last weekend. I was originally thinking about some Amy Butler fabric, lotus tree peony in lime. But I ended up with some Michael Miller because I had a coupon for the fabric store. It’s mirror ball dots in bamboo color. It looks fancier than a regular cotton because the dots are metallic shiny.
And I just have to show the shoes that I started out with. I’m not into shoes. Alan would tell you differently but he’s a guy with what…2 pairs of shoes?? I don’t know any designer labels. In fact I usually get my shoes from Target. But I had to show them because I think they work perfectly with this 50s style dress. Did shoes from the 50’s even look like this? I don’t know. But that’s how I imagine they would look.
And going along with the 50s vibe I insisted on wearing a petticoat with it. Even though Olinda liked how it looked without. And even though Alan said it was too fluffy, which oh my gawd it was. Sitting in the pew at the church I felt like a big marshmallow taking up too much space. But I liked it. I felt like I was playing dress up.
Looking at the pictures I wonder if I chose the wrong size to make? Fitting is something I’m learning more about as I sew more. See the bunching in the front under the crisscross ties? I don’t think that’s right. But no biggie. I mean I didn’t even notice until right now.
Now onto some sewing talk. And oh boy there’s going to be a lot of it.
I did run into some snags while making it. The biggest one was not related to the directions or anything like that. It was more along the lines of I’m a klutz.
I knocked over my hot iron for a second. It didn’t land on any tender body parts. No, nothing like that. And it didn’t even fall off of anything. It just fell over onto the sole plate. What’s wrong with that you say? Well at the time, I had strategically placed it on my computer chair so I’d have more room on my ironing board. And for that one second of contact with the hot metal it melted black fuzzy material onto the iron.
I didn’t notice until I went to iron my dress and black gunk got onto the dress. Huh…maybe that’s why it’s a good idea to use a press cloth. Luckily for me I was ironing on the inside so it doesn’t show. But then my flow of sewing got totally interrupted while I tried to clean off my iron!
The other snags were pattern related. Just small things. Like when I decided to topstitch the top piece to the lining. Nowhere in the directions does it actually say to do that. But the drawings look like they’re topstitched so I decided to do it. But I only did it in the neckline area. I got that far and then decided it wasn’t supposed to be topstitched so didn’t do the armholes. It’s not really noticeable and it doesn’t look bad or anything but I just don’t know what I was supposed to do there.
*Update – Rachel left a comment below with a tutorial on understitching. It’s exactly what needed to be done here.*
Another snag came with the ties. They didn’t seem long enough to tie a bow with, just a knot. So I decided to lengthen them. Also in the directions they aren’t backed or faced with anything, it’s just hemmed. I thought I’d like to finish it with a backing in the same fabric. But you can see that didn’t happen:
Lengthening and backing the tie was a bad idea because my fabric seemed to have shrunk like mad in the wash. Maybe because I washed the hell out it? The original pattern piece for the tie wouldn’t even fit on the fabric. I needed every inch of the 45 inches and with the shrinkage, it just wasn’t there.
So, I decided to cut about ten inches off of the tie and get the rest of the length plus extra on a different piece of the fabric. But there was no different piece of the fabric. There wasn’t enough, though I had bought extra fabric. There wasn’t even enough to back it. So I couldn’t even extend it without having the seam show. So, my ties actually ended up even shorter!
And then I ended up short on fabric for the last skirt panel. I ended up with a divot about 2 inches into the hem line. Luckily I’m not tall so that came off with no problem. See, that’s why it’s a good idea to lay out all your pieces before cutting. I would have seen immediately with my changes that I was short on fabric.
The last snag was the directions for the hem. I found them confusing. I ended up doing it my way because the directions were like…WHAT?? See:
- Try on dress. Mark hem. Trim lower edge to within 5/8″ of marking.
- To hem lower edge, stitch 1/2″ from raw edge.
- Turn in and press edge alongside stitching. Trim very close to stitching.
- Turn in again along trimmed edge. Stitch in place.
What? Doesn’t that leave just 1/8″ to sew up the hem to where you marked it?? That’s teensy.
Well at least two things worked out exactly as I imagined.
One of them being the zipper. All my regular zippers look wonky. I haven’t gotten the knack of putting one in neatly. It’s the zipper pull that throws me off. I didn’t want to ruin the dress with one of my ugly zippers so instead I put in an invisible zipper. I used this tutorial and it came out great. And I like that it looks cleaner, no stitch lines.
The other thing, an even hem. You know, one that accommodates the butt!! I never realized that skirts and dresses should have a hem that’s level with the floor. In fact some of my favorite store bought skirts are longer in front and shorter in back just because of the butt. Not like I have a crazy big butt or anything. I have a normal average size butt. I think it’s the skirts. So I’m so happy this dress has an even hem, not short from behind because of the behind.
Wow! Did you make it all the way to the end? Ok how about a sewing related drawing.
Yes, I drove Alan crazy trying to hem the dress. He was throwing numbers at me that were going over my head. I knew exactly what I wanted: the hem even all the way around from the floor up. But I made it more difficult because I didn’t want the petticoat showing. And he was trying to explain how come it wouldn’t work. Even now I cannot explain to you what he was trying to tell me, just to say I didn’t have enough fabric somewhere. I don’t know. I still don’t get it.
Ok now I’m done with all the sewing talk. Just one more thing about this dress. Would I make it again? I don’t know. It is lovely but it’s not a simple throw on dress. There’s snaps and hooks, a zipper, and a tie. Too complicated for me. I like to wear things that don’t feel like I’m being strapped into them. It was perfect for a wedding but it’s not really an everyday kind of dress for me.
Project details
Pattern: Butterick B4919
Fabric: Cotton – Michael Miller, Mirror Ball Dot, bamboo color
Size: 20
ok I need to remember this dress! I need one JUST LIKE THIS ONE!! Next summer we have to go to a wedding, and we have to go in ‘green’! The bride expects me to wear something special, THis would just be perfect!!! Won’t you sell the dress to me?!?
Hi! I love the dress! I am so impressed with your sewing… I always wanted to be able to sew, but I’ve yet to really make anything.
I think you should apply for Project Runway. How exciting would that be? You would be Kukylicious (if you’re a fan of the current season, you’ll get this reference!).
Hope Nestle is doing well. He’s in my thoughts often.
Take care,
Daisy
Figure-flattering AND fancy! It was definitely worth your time and energy. If there were a best dressed award for wedding guests, I’m sure you would have received it : ) Great job and thanks for always giving sewing tips. Those less experienced (meaning me) absorb this kind of info. It is priceless..
I am so happy to see this post. When I saw the wedding photos I was really hoping you’d talk about your dress because I think it is beautiful and elegant! Good for you, wearing a petticoat and those BEAUTIFUL shoes!
I also thought it was really cool that you and Isabella switched into your pink tennies after the wedding. Stylin’!
Some day I am going to have to do an invisible zipper application. I’ve never even attempted it because some stupid girl in my home ec class a jillion years ago said “Oh. Too hard.” I’m thinking it can’t be harder than the wedding dress I made and I should just do it.
That dress is beautiful! And it looks very cute on you.
I love the dress! I think it is the perfect style for you! M is starting Mother’s Day Out next week, so I hope to accomplish a bit more sewing and knitting. I’m always impressed at what you are able to accomplish with Isabelle running around – sewing, drawing, and blogging about it!
I love love love your dress. It is gorgeous! And the pictures of Isabelle from the wedding are priceless.
The dress turned out beautiful, and the shoes were perfect, and you looked beautiful in them! Look at it this way, when have you ever bought mass-made clothes from the store that were *perfectly* made?
You look gorgeous! and tbe dress is beautiful! I’m also a self taught sewist and one place that I turn to for lots of advice and inspiration is http://www.patternreview.com. They have a very active board and you can look up by your pattern number if anyone else has made it and their review/comments/pics. You should definately submit yours. Remember, you are the boss of your sewing and the choices you make are right!
I think the dress looks fantastic! love the comic. :]
When I saw the wedding pictures I was wondering if you made it yourself. It looks incredible! Fantastic job!
That’s amazing! I want one!
That zipper rocks the house. I love the fabric, too! What a great choice.
This dress is gorgeous, and so flattering. I love the fabric you chose! DH wants to take me shopping for a cocktail dress to wear to some event next week. Little does he know I’m going to go get this pattern and make myself a dress LOL! I’m so inspired by this!
That dress is gorgeous! Thanks for sharing all the little sewing details too. I am fairly new to sewing clothing and any bit of advise is so helpful. Love the shoes too! It’s been a while since I walked through the Target shoe section. I will next time!
You did such a great job! The dress looks wonderful.
It’s really beautiful.. I’d be your sewing buddy in a heart beat. Except I can’t sew quite that well.
That dress is so perfect! I actually want to wear something similar to my own wedding in the Spring but I am scared spitless of A. making it myself, B. having someone else make it C. buying it and not having it fit on the day
Such wonderful work and super fabric to have made it from
I was curious to know if the dress was comfortable or not. Snaps, hooks, zipper and ties? Still it is a very pretty dress. I have never ever seen you from the day I was born in high heels, at least I don’t have that in my memory. Pretty shoes but not even in the photos do you show you wearing them, so still I have not ever seen you in a pair of high heeled shoes. You must look really tall in them. Anyhoo, pretty dress, pretty shoes. I like the zipper that you made. Looks really clean. Didn’t know the bunches didn’t belong, thought that it was the style. Looks right to me. Wow, an even hemmed dress balanced from the floor. Impressive! I would of brought my change of shoes to the wedding too. How can you chase around your kid with a pair of really high shoes? Today in the supermarket I saw a girl in a miniskirt with super high heeled shoes on. She looked kind of unstable and I wondered to myself who was clumsier, me with my big old pregnant belly or the girl with the pretty shoes? So glad I gave those up. How’d I ever get along with them in the past?
That is one beautiful dress! It didn’t look like you had much trouble with it.
You look freakin’ HOT girl! I love that green print and that you wore a petticoat. You so rock!
Hubba, hubba! You look fantastic and the dress turned out sooo beautiful. I’m in love with fabric and you picked the perfect pattern for it and perfect shoes to go with it (and yes, I agree, they are exactly what I imagine 50’s shoes would look like). Oh, and I’d totally be your sewing buddy if I lived in the same state.
You’re my sewing hero! This dress turned out great…I love the fabric.
I really enjoyed reading your whole process of making this dress. The iron on the office chair cracked me up. I can definitely relate about making do with the space you have.
Timeless and beautiful. You did a great job. Of course we all know our little mistakes and improvs, but to an outside party, it’s just wonderful!
http://www.homelyanimal.blogspot.com/
Hot-cha-cha, K! That dress is smokin’ hot on you. Love the shoes and I think a petticoat was definitely a must. And fantastic job on the zipper!
But I do know what you mean about easy wearing. It’s nice to have pretty and dressy but something I can just throw on and go makes me happy.
I just have to say that you looked absolutely gorgeous in your beautiful dress!
I am just beginning to sew and aspire to be able to make clothing for myself and the kiddies.
deb
Regarding your topstitching issues, an alternative would be grading and understitching shown in this tutorial http://makesomething.ca/2008/07/30/tutorial-grading-understitching/
Wow 28 comments! Have I every gotten so many on one post?!
Thank you for all the compliments!
gosh, that is a pretty dress. love it!
I just found your blog and strangely enough I started this dress last week. I just have to put in the zipper and tackle the hem. Love hearing your comments on this one and I hope that mine looks half as wonderful as yours.
Wow !!!! this dress is fantastic, I love the 50’s style, so sophisticated. Congratulations (and I’d also like to stole your shoes…..)
wow! Your dress is so lovely! It’s beautiful the way the skirt simply poofs out and the way the fabric shines in the light. Absolutely fan-tastic!
great dress!
I love that dress you made. It looks amazing on you!
Gorgeous dress, and well done! I’m about to sew the same thing (in about a size 22, with about a 26 waist. I swear I’m not that big!) Love your cartoon – I’ve only recently found a sewing buddy and if she ever moves away I’ll have to stalk her or something (um, that wasn’t meant to sound quite so creepy, just that I LOVE having a sewing buddy at long last!)
I know I commented already, but I wanted to give you an “update” to my comment *laughs*
I just bought this very patter for my gown upcoming (this Spring) wedding!!
Thank you so much for sharing the tutorial Rachel had added!!
Oh geez *stops and thinks about what she’s considering doing*… wish me luck!
The fifties dress you made…..it really does look fabulous on you. (the shoes are fab too) I can not believe that you are anywhere near a size 20 (you have that the pattern is a size 20??) I like how the underneath bodice bid is a bit gathered looking….it looks like it is meant to be like that. Does the skirt sit out so well because you have a petticoat under it, or would it without the petticoat? (and what was the petticoat like….all gathered etc?) You have done a really great job on this, congrats. I just came across this site because I was looking at shirring…about to go and do that nowl
thanks for the tute. Wendy
Thank you. And, yep, a size 20. I went according to the bust size. In the picture I had a petticoat on. I got it on ebay doing a search for crinolines. If I didn’t wear the petticoat it wouldn’t have puffed out so nicely.
I love that dress – it’s just soooo … dressy! And the fabric is pretty awesome as well. I was my local op-shop (thrift-shop to you, I think) and I was browsing through the fabrics when I saw this awesome fabric, which I just had to buy because for some reason it looked familiar. When I got home and was putting it in the washing machine, I saw the selvedge with the printed words: Michael Miller Mirror Ball Dot. It hit me all at once where I had seen the fabric before: On this post! Only the fabric I got has a blue background, is 1.75cm long, absolutely perfect and only AU$4 – whoo-hoo! Bargain! I’m making a pleated skirt out of mine and I hope it turns out half as perfect as your dress.
Cheers,
Sarah
‘Ere it is (they are, I made mine and my Chicky of Dishonour’s dresses)
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=7030275&id=820225110
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=7030316&l=12db95e10e&id=820225110
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=7030071&l=d426d7f3e7&id=820225110
For my dress, I had to make 3 cotton versions/mock-ups/toilles of the bodice to get the right fit and two for Sarah’s dress. Not bad going, in my own opinion, considering I hadn’t sewn anything in about 16 years and never, never done a zipper!