Daily Archives: August 15, 2008

Sewing My Wrap Dress

This post is showing the details of the tricky steps for my Label-Free post.
Sewing order

1. Sew the gathered front pieces to the yokes. This step has detailed drawings:
Step 1

I gather my two front pieces by sewing two stitch lines then pulling the threads to gather it. If I didn’t know the characters for gather, ギャザ, I would still know to gather because of the drawing of the two stitch lines.

I then sew the fronts to the yokes, right sides together. In the drawing, it says wrong side, 裏. You don’t need the translations though because the seams are showing. I finish the seam and iron it towards the shoulder. Then I top stitch the seam allowances at .2cm away. ステッチ means stitch. If you’re wondering about the crossed out areas, that’s for my reference where I’ve changed the seam allowances on my dress.

2. Sew the front to the back pieces at the shoulder. Sewing right sides together and finish the seams.

3. Sew the side seams. Sew right sides together. Finish the seams.

4. Fold up and sew the hem. I’ve circled the number 2 at the hem on the drawing. That tells me I need to fold the hem 2cm and then again 2cm. I then top stitch that down.

5. Fold and sew the front edges of the dress. That’s folded up at 1.5cm twice. I’ve circled the 1.5 on the drawing. I top stitch that down.

6. Sew the facings on the back and front pieces. This step has detailed drawings:
Step 6

I sew my facing pieces right sides together. The part with the fusible interfacing is shown in the drawing. I then sew the facings to the dress. It curves around from the front pieces to the back piece. I then clip the curves and trim the seam down to .5 cm. Then I turn the facings to the inside of my fabric and edge stitch the facing down at .2cm.

7. Make 2 button loops. Detailed drawings:
Step 7

I need to cut a piece sized 2cm by 10cm on the bias. I fold that in half and sew at .3cm – .4cm. I cut away the excess leaving a seam allowance of .2cm. And I finish by turning it inside out.

8. Sew the waistband area. Detailed drawings:
Step 8

Sew the button loop onto the right side of the bias fabric, バイアス布, 1cm in. Fold the outside edges in.

Step 8 continued

Cut out a piece of elastic. The sizes 80/85/90/95 correspond to the sizes 7,9 11, and 13. Sew the bias fabric to wrong side of dress leaving ends open. Thread elastic inside the bias fabric and then sew down the ends of elastic and the bias fabric.

9. Sew the cuffs and sleeves. Detailed drawings:
Step 9 - a

Fold one edge of the cuff up 1cm, wrong sides facing. Then fold it up again in the opposite direction right sides facing. Sew down the ends at 1 cm. I think I found this drawing the most difficult to understand. I ended up doing it my way. I figured out what the drawings meant while writing these directions!

Step 9 - b
Next, sew the sleeve, right sides together, up to the mark on the pattern. For the rest of the sleeve fold the seam allowance twice by .7cm and then stitch that down. Finish the unfolded seam allowance for the sleeve.

Step 9 - c
Then flip the sewed part of the cuff inside out. Sew the unfolded edge of the cuff to the sleeve. Fold the cuff enclosing all the raw edges and stitch all layers at .1cm away from the edge.

10. Sew the sleeves into the armholes. Right sides together and finish the seams.

11. Sew the belt. Detailed drawing:
Step 11

The 206/210/216/220 correspond to the sizes 7,9 11, and 13. Sew using 1cm seam allowance leaving an opening 3cm large. Turn inside out.

12. Sew the buttonholes and the buttons in the cuffs and make the belt loops. At this point I also sewed the buttons for the button loops at the waist.

And ta da! I’m done! Do a happy dance!